There is loving surfing, and then there is LOVING surfing
03 Mayo 2018 17:43
Surfing can be an extreme and, therefore, dangerous sport. This video shows why. A daring surfer decided to brave an overflowing river, because when better to do your favourite hobby?
The principle is the same, but the danger is far more pronounced than surfing off a coast: if you get dragged away by the waves at a beach, you are most likely going to end up pushed back towards the shore. However, with an overflowing river, where you end up very much depends on which direction the water is flowing in. You could end up ashore, or it could push you towards a larger pool of water, like a lake or even out at sea.
Surfing with a surfboard is a relatively recent Polynesian invention. The art of it, called heʻe ʻana in Hawaiian, was a central tenet of ancient Polynesian culture before the region had even made contact with Europeans. The chief of a community, called the Ali'i, was most often the best surfer and had his board made with the best type of wood that was available. The upper classes had exclusive access to the best surf spots, and they didn't share them with 'commoners'.
In Samoa and Tahiti, they used surfing as a form of combat training. Their warriors would spend hours upon hours training by seeking the largest waves and meeting them head-on like they would an enemy on the battlefield. Meanwhile, ancient Hawaiians saw surfing not as a pastime, or training, but as an art form. They called it 'heʻe nalu', which literally translates to 'wave sliding'. Before going into the ocean, they would pray to the gods for protection from its power. If the ocean was unsuitable for surfing because it was lacking waves, the surfers would approach the community's priest (the 'kahuna') and ask him to pray for a good surf.
Today, surfing has spread beyond Polynesian culture and has become a favourite for many people, either as a hobby or as a professional sport. Three subcategories of standing-up surfing are long-boarding, stand-up paddling, and short boarding. Surfing will debut as an Olympic sport in the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. The International Surfing Association had attempted many times in the past to include the sport in the international sporting competition, and in 2015 it was shortlisted for consideration, along with baseball, karate, skateboarding, softball, and climbing.